Copenhagen: A magical boat tour of the canals

Copenhagen is beyond beautiful with it’s colourful painted houses, cobbled streets and stunning architecture. Arguably the best bits are the long stretches of calm canal waters which provide a smooth and enjoyable method of seeing the city, as well as a way to discover famous attractions from a different perspective.

If you read my earlier post, you’ll know all about Bedwood Hostel in Nyhavn, which happens to be one of the departure sites for the tour. If you decide to rest your weary head there, you can literally walk out of your front door and onto a boat, making this a super convenient (not to mention enjoyable) activity. The tour is also incredibly cheap at 80DK, around £8, compared to how expensive other activities tend to be (especially if you’re planning on partying and getting drunk!)



Heading down to the dock, the ticket kiosks were completely deserted and there was no sign of life on any of the moored vessels. Suddenly a low blue boat came gliding through the waters headed straight for us. Even more blue than the boat though, was the person standing on it’s prow. Full of cheerful energy with bright blue hair emerging askew from beneath her hoody, Alaia beamed at us as she lassoed a length of thick rope to a post on the dock.  ‘Are you ready to see some cool things?!’ she enthused in English heavy with a Danish lilt. Her thick soled boots thumped against the deck as she jumped effortlessly across the stretch of water between dock and vessel as we pushed off and departed.
Here’s a photo of our guide so you can fully appreciate that fantastic hair and glowing Scandinavian smile.



‘It’s going to get very cold, so you might want to sit inside’ she advised mock sternly. Being a stoic Brit not used to complaining about minor trifles such as the cold, and not one to back down from a challenge, I decided to tough it out outside.
I took the Canals Tour which starts out on the open waters of the harbour, before traversing the canals, floating under the many bridges peppered across the city. I took the tour in November which, just for the record, is madness. Freezing northernly winds blast you in the face, leaving icicles hanging from your nose and swelling up your hands like overcooked sausages.

Street Food

The wonderful Alaia was extremely precise at pointing out interesting views and explaining their significance. This is another massive upside to taking a guided tour: learning about the history of a location and understanding its cultural significance.
Out on the open water, Alaia pointed out Copenhagen Street Food located on Paper Island, which is exactly what it sounds like: a warehouse which houses an array of stalls where you can sample the best street foods the city has on offer. Sadly it is only open Thursdays, Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays.  As it was Monday and I was leaving that day, this information was largely unhelpful to me. If you’re passing through Copenhagen and have time to check it out for yourself, let me know how it was in the comments!

The Opera House

The Opera House is situated in the harbour, a hulking stone and glass monument to modernity. It is one of the most expensive opera houses ever built at over $500 million. It sits in alignment with Amalienborg, the main royal palace, and the Marble Church, so that from it’s main entrance you can look across the waters, down the road through Amalienborg, directly at the church. This is reason enough to visit the Opera House in it’s own right if you have the opportunity.
Below is my photo of the view, which is sadly ruined by the giant plastic bag covering the palace. Must be a bad hair day. Still, the Marble Church is absolutely stunning, particularly on a bright day where the sunlight glints off the green and gold roof.

The Little Mermaid

Copenhagen’s crowning glory and most iconic landmark, The Little Mermaid statue is located in the shallow waters beyond a small bank that slopes down from the Langelinie promenade. I couldn’t believe how tiny she was and how vulnerable and delicate the statue looked in person. Hans Christian Andersen, the famous fairytale author, is one of Denmark’s best known exports, but this monument to one of his classic masterpieces just doesn’t do justice to his legacy.

This is the one thing I wouldn’t advise seeing from a boat. As we awkwardly swerved past, I managed to catch the briefest glimpse of her back. The reason for the low photo quality is because I had to zoom in so much- definitely consider going on foot if you want a proper look, but don’t be shocked by how underwhelming she is.

Hidden treasures

We spend so much time looking at our feet or immediate surroundings, that we often forget the details present all around us. Just like Charles Baudelaire’s ‘flaneur’, a person who investigates the urban landscape, you can have a much richer experience of Copenhagen if you pay close attention and keep your curiosity engaged at all times. There are many things you might easily miss whilst wandering around if they aren’t pointed out to you or lie in more obscure areas of the city. One of the best ways to access hard to reach or lesser known parts is by scoping them out on the boat tour.
Like the Church of Our Saviour, with it’s beautiful gold and green spiralling top. It’s buildings like this which make you understand why Copenhagen is often referred to as ‘The City of Spires’. As the boat emerged from under a bridge, I had only seconds to snap it quickly before the view was obscured by other buildings. I managed to hold my icy hands steady and capture this crooked but clear shot.

Gliding under the bridges, I glimpsed the gates to Christiansborg Palace, and noticed some stunning details on the tops of the walls.

I was also able to take a lingering look at the magnificent green rooftop.
What on earth are these? Good question. They look a bit like globs of papier mache from a preschool art class, but they are in fact legitimate works of art. Copenhagen’s museums, buildings and streets are littered with statues and sculptures- they’re so prolific that they form an intrinsic part of the landscape. A fun game is trying to spot them all, very rewarding when you come across curiosities like these.
The building below is an experimental housing complex, typical of some of the bold new designs in Danish architecture. The lease will be until 2017, after which the city will decide what to do with it next. I hope it stays!

Christianshavn
This upmarket area of town is full of luxury boats moored along the sides of the canal and the houses are even more beautiful than in other parts of town. This is an area you could easily overlook, as it is mainly residential and there isn’t much reason to visit unless you’re keen to hang out with the Copenhagen elite. Honestly, it doesn’t really look like much fun here.

The black balcony which looks very prominent against the plain cream facade of the house, is in reality pretty inconspicuous. This used to be Hans Christian Andersen’s house, where he wrote many of his best loved stories. This is the perfect allegorical landmark for a man whose literary greatness was not always immediately recognised. Blink and you’ll miss it.

Far too soon the tour was over. There had been something incredibly liberating about moving around the city by water. It felt very private, and also voyeuristic to be able to see angles you wouldn’t on foot. It’s also a great way to people watch, as though the world is a picture book, with the story of all the lives on the canal banks unravelling around you as you become a distant observer.
I’m glad to report that I didn’t lose any fingers during this freezing expedition (or my head on any of the very low bridges).  The tour was a non stop tour de force of some of the most intriguing locations, with something new to marvel at every few minutes. It also served as a reminder that Copenhagen is so rich with art and culture, that after a day or two of soaking up so much gorgeous scenery, you almost take it for granted. Don’t.



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